1947 CJ20A

[Jonny tsunami]

so just curious on why the two piece drive line verse's a one piece, lookin good!

[cousinmike]

I've busted three starters from the driveline hitting it while racing. This way I can keep the Jeep low for stability and not have to sacrifice limiting the suspension travel as much. Figure it's the best I can do for now on a budget build. I've seen a couple Jeeps with this done and it seems to work for them.

[cousinmike]

Don't want this to happen again.

s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab9/cousinmike_photos/?action=view¤t=SDV_0130.mp4

[Jonny tsunami]

ok that make sense, nice!!

[cousinmike]

Got the front half done.





Off the jack stands

[cousinmike]

Here’s a pic showing the missing fourth bolt car steering boxes don’t have. The Chevy car box bolts right on with the other three bolts. So I braced the box at the pitman arm for extra support. I’ve seen damaged boxes from not having the fourth bolt.

[cousinmike]

I had to fix a leaky steering shaft input seal on the new used steering box. I found a good site on Pirate that showed step by step rebuilding these steering boxes. Here’s some pics from what I did to just replace the input seals.



The seal kit was only $7.19 at NAPA









Mark the box and adjuster nut and count the number of threads showing so pre-load is correct when reassembling



I had to be careful with the stub shaft here. The valve body can slide off the stub shaft and there are seals, O rings and bearings that can get damaged.





This is the adjuster plug removed from the stub shaft. I had to carefully pull in a twisting motion to get it off the shaft.
The remaining valve body can come off the stub shaft as well but I kept it in place so I didn’t damage other seals, O rings and bearings as I am only replacing the input seals and O ring.




Here’s the old parts and the new parts installed. I had to install the stub shaft seal using a socket of the right size (and lubricate the parts). I had to be careful installing the new stub shaft seal pushing it in just far enough so the shaft seal, dust seal and retainer are snug against each other. The stub shaft seal can be pushed in further if not careful.



I had to put the rag joint coupler on and twist the stub shaft in the valve body and adjuster plug while pushing it all together to get it all seated. There are parts inside that need to properly fit together before putting it back in the steering box.



The assembly slid back in the steering box and I had to put the rag joint coupler back on and turn the stub shaft back and forth a little while tightening the adjuster plug so it all lined up properly. Lined the adjuster plug back up with the marks made before taking it apart and counted the threads showing, put the lock ring back on and reconnected to steering shaft. This project was much easier than I thought it would be.

[The Black Jeep]

Nice write up

[cousinmike]

Scored a new HIE distributor, fat fender header and a Holley 660 double pumper carb and another set of 8 lug 15x10 wheels at the swap meet this weekend.

Now I need to rebuild the carb and redo my exhaust. would be nice to find some super traps to put on the end of the headers that will dump out behind the front tires. But that might be too noisy for the dunes...

[cousinmike]

I need to get new ball joints for the D44. Shucks has them for $12 for uppers and $13 for lowers. Seems pretty cheep. They also have others for around $45 each. THat's a big difference in $$$. Does anyone know the difference? Would the cheaper ones really be weaker??

Also, the headers I scored at the swap meet ended up not being Fatfender Headers. They're fenderwell headers for a 55-57 Chevy and will also work on 34-57 Chey's with SBC. Looked them up on Speedway and they sell new for around $550. Might end up selling these and getting a new set of Fatfender header. They're only about $160 new.

[chevtech]

I would not go with cheap ball joints if it were me, they won't last very long. I would go with a quality product like Moog, TRW or spicer.

[blk01ram]

The ones that I used for the D44 I had I got from Complete Offroad =>completeoffroad.com/i-123149-ball-joints-dana-30-44-and-gm-8-5-ds-706116.html. They were $55 for each side (upper and lower) plus shipping. Believe the lower was sealed, but they were Spicer brand. That was cheaper then I could find local for Spicer brand.

[cousinmike]

Here's the fiberglass body I'm trying to put together. I'll need to do some glassing when it warms up.







Here's an old top from a Blazer that I'm cutting the grill and hood scoop from.

[mudslinger97117]

Way to recycle

[cousinmike]

Can't see paying alot for stuff I can make.