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Post by Buzzer on Jun 1, 2010 23:59:48 GMT -5
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boondock
axle snapper
S series club
Posts: 121
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Post by boondock on Jun 2, 2010 2:16:26 GMT -5
i have the same shocks in the 14" variety, with eyelets on both ends. and i dont have that plate that goes on top of the mount. would that plate work for me? can i get that at napa?
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Post by Buzzer on Jun 2, 2010 2:28:53 GMT -5
nope...
we made them outta some extra steel laying around
cut to cover the top, then took a sharpe and market the hole from the bottom side and drilled them out.
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boondock
axle snapper
S series club
Posts: 121
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Post by boondock on Jun 2, 2010 3:17:40 GMT -5
(cut to cover the top, then took a sharpe and market the hole from the bottom side and drilled them out.)-
i didnt really get that. ill just use my imagination tomorrow. im going to school for engineering i better be able to figure it out.
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Post by chevtech on Jun 2, 2010 14:54:47 GMT -5
If you have eyelets on both sides then you don't need a plate for the top, the original rear shocks had a eyelet on the top, you could also do it the way I did in and made a crossember to hook them to. Either look through my build thread or I will find some pics tonight.
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boondock
axle snapper
S series club
Posts: 121
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Post by boondock on Jun 3, 2010 1:03:35 GMT -5
yeah chevtech i saw yours and i was actually planning on doing it that way. but my shocks are freakin long and like the idea of getting the upper mounts higher. did all jimmys have the same rear shock setup? so i could just go pick them up at the scrap yard.
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boondock
axle snapper
S series club
Posts: 121
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Post by boondock on Jun 10, 2010 18:48:16 GMT -5
stock upper shock mounts are very hard to get too at the scrap yard, so i started making my own mounts that were going to be welded to the stock mounts then the eyelet would sit above stock location. while attempting this poorly designed ghetto fab. i managed to tag a fuel line with the end of the electrode, resulting in a fire. well that scarred my shit less, i got it out by the grace of God. but was quite shaken up over the whole thing. while re designing, i noticed that the shocks came with a peice that was exactly like the stock mount. so i laughed and installed that, tacked the tabs to the axle and away we go to flex test. ;D No... there is a hole in the fuel line.
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boondock
axle snapper
S series club
Posts: 121
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Post by boondock on Jun 17, 2010 18:18:34 GMT -5
pulled and replaced fuel line. bled brakes, and they are marginaly better. they actually slow you down now. but are not even close to being able to lock up. i noticed while bleeding that the fronts bled very well, and the rears have much less pressure. this led me to think about the proportion valve. i heard its very hard if not impossible to adjust. what would my options be?
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Post by BIG chief on Jun 18, 2010 0:00:31 GMT -5
the stock proportioning valve is non adjustable, if thats still there take it out and put in an after market one with a knob, cause the stock one will not put nearly enough fluid to a rear disc brake setup when it originally had drums
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Post by poorboy1 on Jun 18, 2010 22:24:18 GMT -5
I ran mine with the stock valve for a couple years and worked ok not great. Now I have no P valve at all. Works great, however the rear tires will lock up before the front which I dont mind.
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Outlawford
trail master
GOT TUBE DOORS?
Posts: 552
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Post by Outlawford on Jun 19, 2010 0:14:23 GMT -5
I just took my p valve off and it works fine.
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Post by possumpieces on Jun 22, 2010 20:26:27 GMT -5
I ran mine with the stock valve for a couple years and worked ok not great. Now I have no P valve at all. Works great, however the rear tires will lock up before the front which I dont mind. When you eliminated it, did you remove it? Or modafy it?
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Post by poorboy1 on Jun 22, 2010 21:18:44 GMT -5
I removed it. I actually ran all new lines from the master cylinder to the rear calipers.
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Post by possumpieces on Jun 23, 2010 0:29:10 GMT -5
so you put a tee fitting there to split the line to the two front callipers?
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Post by poorboy1 on Jun 23, 2010 6:57:34 GMT -5
my master cylinder has a front and rear chamber. Front chamber has a line that goes down to the drivers side frame rail to a tee. One line to the left and one to the right, then drops off the frame to each front caliper. The rear chamber has a line that goes down to the frame rail then back to the rear of the truck where it drops to the axle then tees off to each side.
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