My 84 k5.

[copenhagen]

Aug 2, 2010 10:28:49 GMT -5 Rock Dawg said:

I'm hoping it will work out for you. Maybe run some lighter weight oil (10-30) in it after the break in oil is out. Marvels mystery oil is good stuff. I’d put one quart in it and take it easy while breaking in the motor and letting the lifters prime the rest of the way. It sounds like it is making good power! You just have to get the lifters working and you should be OK.

How is the oil pressure when warmed up at Idle? What about 1500 RPM?

Rule of thumb. You need 10 lbs of oil pressure for every 1000 RPM to keep the moving parts from hitting metal. So at 5,500 RPM, you need 55 PSI of Oil pressure, but at a 1,000 PRM you only need 10 PSI to be OK. Now this is the minimum oil pressure... Ideally the oil pressure should not go above 80 PSI. With high volume/high pressure oil pumps, I've seen them pump so much oil that the oil can not drain down back through the motor fast enough and ruin the motors that way as well. Plus too much oil pressure makes gaskets leak. I think the best oil pressures are from 30 PSI at hot idle to 65PSI under wide open throttle at peak RPM’s.

If the rockers start “Squeaking” because of no oil, you may need to replace the lifters down the road. If you have to replace the lifters, submerge them in oil for 24 hours. Press on the lifters (compress the springs) every once in a while to get them good and primed to get the air out.

Talking to CHS, he said no break in was nessacary, just run up and down the beach, let it rest, then im good to go.

I wasnt even going to bring extra oil and filter with me. Maybe i should do an Oil change at summer bash

I do have a bottle of Marvel.

Oil pressure on initial start up, jumps straight to 60. it warms up, and it stays around 45.

[Rock Dawg]

Well. No break in necessary?! I've built a number of motors, and a number of race motors. Any time the motor is apart and rebuilt, you have little metal flakes (from honing the block and any machine work) in the oil that will only come out with oil changes. In full blown race motors (AA Gas, 2500 HP), between races they rebuild them, but they don’t do any machine work, or honing of the cylinders. When putting in a new motor and the machine work is done, most race teams do 1/8 and ¼ passes then ½ passes, changing oil and inspecting parts between each pass. I'd do an oil change after a day or so at sand lake. The Oil Pressure sounds GREAT! With the new parts in the motor, the engine should get hot quicker being new and as things settle in place, 3,000 - 5,000 miles, the motor will be running better and cooler.

The new rings, (Even cast rings, but chrome molly are worse for break in but best if done correct) and the new hone in the block take some time to get broke in. Hammering the throttle and putting alot of pressure in the cylinders before the rings are seated can cause more bypass and less compression. Your motor will still work, but may not be as fast as it could be because of the break in.

If it were my motor, I would take it and play with it, but not hammer wide open for more then 3-5 sec’s at a time and keep an eye on the temp gage. I would let it cool down and “cycle the motor” by getting it warm and letting it cool through out the day. I would also change the oil and get the break in oil out of it after 1-2 day’s at sand lake, so the metal flakes in the oil don’t do any damage to the bearings or rings. Even if the motor goes south on you, you will never doubt you did the right thing by breaking the motor in easier then just hammering on it.

[copenhagen]

Ok... I trust your word 100x more than the guys at CHS. I will take it easy thursday... Then change the oil.

After I change the oil. Can i hammer on it a little more on friday, and saturday? Lol i dont want to have to pussy foot it all weekend. I will if i have to. But a guys gotta have a little fun ya know.

[chevtech]

Change it after a couple hundred miles or so then run the hell out of it!!!!!

[copenhagen]

My odometer doesnt work. I need somone to make a run between the deadlines on the beach, and tell me how many miles. Then i can just go back and forth till i hit 100. lol....

Ill just cruise around thursday, then change it thursday night, then change it when i get back home.. That should be alright.

[BIG chief]

and to help seat the rings you should accelerate lightly then decel to about a 10mph drop then repeat a few times. and if its a new cam it should be run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes then allowed to cool down for proper break in of the cam, roller cam not required to break in

[copenhagen]

Aug 3, 2010 1:43:37 GMT -5 BIG chief said:

and to help seat the rings you should accelerate lightly then decel to about a 10mph drop then repeat a few times. and if its a new cam it should be run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes then allowed to cool down for proper break in of the cam, roller cam not required to break in

Cam wasnt changed, so im good to go there.

[poorboy1]

I never break in an offroad eng by mileage. Like rusty said use heat cycles. Once you've done a few heat cycles run it harder. Just don't do long hard pulls until after you do the oil.

What work was actualy done to the eng

[Rock Dawg]

Aug 2, 2010 23:25:30 GMT -5 copenhagen said:

Ok... I trust your word 100x more than the guys at CHS. I will take it easy thursday... Then change the oil.

After I change the oil. Can i hammer on it a little more on friday, and saturday? Lol i dont want to have to pussy foot it all weekend. I will if i have to. But a guys gotta have a little fun ya know.

Thanks, I wonder if CHS thinks they will get more $$ from you if it brakes again ;-) Are you going to be down at Sand lake Thursday through Sunday? If so I would heat cycle it Thursday and Friday. Then change the oil Friday Night. You can use the gallons of gas to guess the amount of miles you are putting on it. Say 6-8 MPG in the sand (taking it easier), although that is not as important as getting the motor good and warm then letting it cool back down. Look at the oil after you change it (for to much metal filings), and remember to change the filter. I like the "Fram Tough guard" filters, but I think for the most part filters are filters.

By Saturday and Sunday you should be able to get on it alot more, but try not to get it over 210 on the temp. On a normal broke in motor. I don't like to see more then 220 on the temp before I'm looking for a place to cool it down.

See you Friday Night!

[copenhagen]

Aug 3, 2010 7:23:43 GMT -5 poorboy1 said:

I never break in an offroad eng by mileage. Like rusty said use heat cycles. Once you've done a few heat cycles run it harder. Just don't do long hard pulls until after you do the oil.

What work was actualy done to the eng

crank bearings, thrust bearing, cam bearings, piston rings, cylinder walls honed... So im told anyway

I left the thermostat out, and when i was driving it around the block i never saw the temp go over 180... Im wondering if i should leave it out, and she will stay cooler.

Thx for the help you guys.

[chevtech]

Leaving the thermostat out will not necessarily keep it cooler, since the coolant is circulating all of the time and never gets a chance to stop in the radiator to cool down. I recommend running a thermostat.

[copenhagen]

yea. Im gonna bring it with me. Ill toss it in at camp if it doesnt run the temps i want.

[poorboy1]

You'll want the thermostat in it. I still run a 195 in mine. Some day I may drop it to 180. I would put a 160 in before I went without.

Like josh says it may not cool due to water passing thru too quick. Plus it will most likely be a cold hearted bitch until it comes up to temp.

[Rock Dawg]

x3. I would run a 180 thermostat in it also :-)..

[copenhagen]

Aug 3, 2010 16:28:18 GMT -5 Rock Dawg said:

x3. I would run a 180 thermostat in it also :-)..

thats what i got... maybe ill just throw it in tomorrow morning before work, then i dont have to dick with it.