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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 0:22:41 GMT -5
Next was to figure out exactly how I was going to put the axle in the front. I wasn't sure if i was gonna leaf the front or rear. After a couple days of pondering I decided it would be easier to link the rear and leaf the front. First thing I had to do was cut off the tubing I originally welded up front. No need to mess around with the round tube when i could just add some square and make life easier.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 0:35:03 GMT -5
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 0:41:28 GMT -5
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 0:50:15 GMT -5
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 0:51:45 GMT -5
Took advantage of the 4th of July sale at pick n pull and found some seats.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 0:55:53 GMT -5
Been working on tabs for the rear 4 link. Still need to figure out if I am doing dual triangulated links or straight uppers and angled lowers. If I do dual triangulated I will have to come up with a truss. So in the mean time I will just keep making tabs. And just got some tires mocked up to see what it might look like.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 7, 2013 18:02:26 GMT -5
It took an air hammer and alot of sweat but I got the paddles of the wheels. need to sand blast and weld in new centers next. Swapped out the booster for the new one and master cylinder. I'll worry about plumbing when the rear axle is installed.
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Post by cousinmike on Jul 7, 2013 21:07:46 GMT -5
Ya that can be hard work without a tire machine. I use an old torsion bar about 5 feet long with a chisel at one end and slide a fence post driver over it to brake my beads.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 8, 2013 22:52:25 GMT -5
Got the center torched out of one of the wheels. Chucked it up in the lathe and turned the ends smooth. Took longer than I thought. They need to be tuned about another 1/16th inch. Still got another on to do as well.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 8, 2013 23:07:35 GMT -5
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Post by chevtech on Jul 8, 2013 23:30:24 GMT -5
Looking good!
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Post by Rock Dawg on Jul 9, 2013 10:46:16 GMT -5
I was going to just put the drive line in that came from the donor truck but it had a cv joint and was flange mounted. The flange is way to close to my cross member to try and use it. The 32 spline yoke from the dodge I had on was also too small for what I wanted. I dug thru my shelf of old stuff and found a 1350 32 spline yoke. Didn't even know I had it. Must be left over from upgrading the chevy. So I had to dig around and find enough parts to put the shaft together. I had a slip spline for a 2" tube with 1310 a yoke. That will work for the axle end. The only 1350 yoke I had for the other was a spare slip yoke. I tossed it in the lathe and turned it down to 2" and chopped it off. Used some 2" .120 DOM for the tube.
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Post by Rock Dawg on Jul 9, 2013 10:49:39 GMT -5
looking great! I may have to figure out how to build a driveline or two soon. What are the biggest ends made 1410's - 1450's? I wonder if six states or something has those parts... I should have the pipe left over.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 9, 2013 16:05:04 GMT -5
I dont think you need to run bigger than a 1410. Search on pirate and buy used duece n ahalf drivelines and cut them down.
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Post by poorboy1 on Jul 12, 2013 21:25:36 GMT -5
Finished turning the second wheel the other day. I installed an air actuated steering column from a Freightliner Century about 7 years ago. It sat out in the weather and rusted and wouldn't turn. So I had to take it apart and free up the bearings. I then removed the lower shaft from inside a tilt column from a F/L Cascadia along with the slip column from the same. They will weasel around the header nicely. I did have a F/L FLD column that went straight to the gear box but now with the new headers that wouldn't work.
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