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Post by blk01ram on May 1, 2009 22:01:22 GMT -5
Got the engine and transmission in with the wifes help today. Glad it's back in and looks like the crossmember is holding strong. Crawled underneath to check how much room I'd have after putting the transmission X-member in and from what it looks like I'm going to have to make a new one that will incorporate my lower link brackets as well as hold the transmission. Shouldn't be too hard, but will have to play around with it on my next weekend. Once I get that figured out, have to install a 220 outlet in the garage for the welder since the dryer outlet is too far away, and get my brackets/rod ends/flex joints and coil springs ordered and it should be smooth (read frustrating) rolling from there.
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Post by blk01ram on May 9, 2009 20:04:31 GMT -5
Finished installing the engine, have all the wires and connectors plugged in. Since I can't use the headers, put the manifolds back on, and plugged the holes where the pollution pump pipes connected. Also bolted the transfer case onto the back of the transmission to check fitment. After jacking up the transmission/tc into position found that I now have to cut two small strips out of the floor in order to get the engine level. It's about 1-2* off from level currently and the back of the transmission and the transfercase is hitting the floor. I'll tackle that next week, also have to get some taller jackstands due to mine being maxxed out. To the bottom of the frame the way it sits now is 19" from the ground and the bottom of the transfercase will be about 18". Not too bad, but I want about 22-23" of clearance after I get the skid plate/crossmember done. Shouldn't raise it too much, if it does going to have fun trying to get it out of the garage. Also, the deadline that I was working for...having it sitting on all 4's by early June has just gone out the window. With the issues I've discovered with how I wanted to do the front spring set, it may be done by September, no way for SB5 .
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Post by poorboy1 on May 9, 2009 21:14:01 GMT -5
what are you measuring to be level? engines dont typically sit level. they sit at a "power" angle. every where from 4deg to 7deg depending on the make. not sure about dodge but i bet it doesnt call out to be level.
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Post by blk01ram on May 10, 2009 19:07:18 GMT -5
I was measuring from where the throttlebody bolts to manifold. Always thought they had to be level, guess I need to read a little more. It's currently angle down in back about 1*. I'll lower the transmission/TC down to give some clearance to the floor and how it looks. Thanks Jason, saves me from cutting up some of the floor.
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Post by poorboy1 on May 10, 2009 19:19:16 GMT -5
the engine has a power angle. the carb/throttle body usually ends up about 0 deg i think. but if it helps with cutting i would think 1 or 2deg on the carb wouldnt hurt? sounds like you have you measurements right.
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Post by popeye on May 10, 2009 20:44:27 GMT -5
i just did mine and i set it the same way at the carb plate its a couple degree tilt. i was trying to get the carb level
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Post by blk01ram on Dec 12, 2009 21:58:20 GMT -5
Been a while since I posted on this. Ordered a clocking ring for the transfer case since the front output would have hit the cross-member I was making. Got the ring installed and when I jacked the transmission up into position, the transfer case was hitting the floor, so got the sawzall and made an access hole. Probably could have made it a little smaller, was kinda hard to judge from laying under the truck. With the cross-member installed and the transfer case clocked up, don't look like there will be any issue with the driveshaft hitting...that I can see right now. Also with the transfer case clocked up, the only thing that is below the frame now is the cross-member itself Sorry no pictures today, will get some next week hopefully. Hoping to get the metal cut and welded up next week, that is depending on what the insurance guy says Monday. We had a water pipe break above the garage on Thursday. Luckily Des was home when it happened and got the water shut off. The drywall is still a little wet in places where I didn't poke a hole to let the water drain, but none of my power tools appear to have been ruined.
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Post by chevtech on Dec 12, 2009 23:25:25 GMT -5
Looking forward to seeing more progress on this.
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Post by Brennerbadboy on Dec 13, 2009 13:49:50 GMT -5
sounds like your making good progress, waiting for pictures
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Post by blk01ram on Dec 13, 2009 23:29:07 GMT -5
No where near finished, still need to cut it down and cut the angle iron for the frame mount. It may end up about a half inch lower since right now the 2x4 is bolted tight to the bottom of the transmission mount, leaving no "wiggle" room for the engine when it's under load. Going to put a couple of the rubber washers from the stock crossmember in there to give it a little. Also need to come up with a transfer case mount, which I have an idea for, will have to see if it'll work. Anyways, here's a couple of pictures with what I'm working with so far... Transfer case tucks up nicely after the clocking ring. Forgot to get pics of the hole I had to cut in the floor to get it to clear, but after I get the shifter hole cut I'll get some. Also here's the set of H1 beadlocks I picked up the other day to eventually be put on after I get stronger axles... Planning on mounting the crossmember to the frame with at least 8, .5"-.75" grade 8 bolts (the biggest size the frame will allow) after I at some metal to the inside "C" of the frame and then box it in. Going to make access holes in it for the cross-member bolts can be removed. Will bolting it to the frame be strong enough for a lower link mount, or should I use some 2x2 .250 wall tubing and weld it to the frame for the mount?
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Post by Buzzer on Dec 13, 2009 23:53:38 GMT -5
nice... dame those wheels look alot cleanner then mine... clean up won't take long....
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Post by blk01ram on Feb 5, 2010 20:07:09 GMT -5
Finally had some time to work on this thing. Seems like every weekend something comes up and I have no time. Anyways, got the transmission/transfer case crossmember mocked up. Need to cut the 2x2 tube for the transfer case mount, and the cut some plate to get it mounted, but the main frame rail section is done. Decided to add another section to where it attaches to the frame. I really didn't like the idea of mounting it with 10 1/2" bolts through the bottom part of the frame, so I added some 3" angle to the designe and will mount it with 10 addition 9/16" bolts through the side. Since this is also the lower link mount want it to be as strong as possible. On to the pics.... The X's are where the 9/16" grade 8 bolts will be. These will be welded together, and will be bolted to the frame with the 5 1/2" grade 8 bolts on each side. There will be a couple of angled 2x2 from the frame rail towards the center for some additional bracing The transmission still needs to be raised about a little more then 1/8th of an inch to be flush with the bottom of the mount. Currently the bolts are sitting at 17.5", once the crossemember is finished I'm going to raise the whole truck another 3.5"-4". The height will be about 6' 10" if I measured correctly. Still need to remove the rust from the outside and inside of the frame. Going to weld some plates to the inside of the "C" where the crossmember is going to bolt for addtional strength and weld the current holes up. Then will continue with boxing in the frame like the front section, with access holes to remove the bolts for the crossmember.
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Post by WILLYNILLY on Feb 7, 2010 1:46:01 GMT -5
forgive me if I missed something but have you concidered drilling the holes larger on the bottom of that xmember to allow the nut to be resessed?
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Post by blk01ram on Feb 7, 2010 4:52:43 GMT -5
The crossmember is already recessed on the top side of it. The mount for the transmission sticks really far down so in order to get the cross tube closer to the frame I had to do it that way. Here's a picture of it without the tube... The lower link mounts are going to mounted to the lower section of that tube as well, so hopefully the clearance will still be okay. I need to get a couple of longer bolts for it though, since putting in the rubber spacers there's no thread sticking out.
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Post by guest on Feb 7, 2010 10:47:58 GMT -5
It would be nice, but I can't right now. Wife would shoot me. What year is it, LOL
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