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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 2:22:28 GMT -5
I'm going to write this in sections, because nobody wants to read a 2000 word essay all in one part. i may have to add additional pictures later, i may not have taken enough at the time. i am building another right now and will post pics later. To start out, i bought a Dana 60/corp 14 from a guy in Woodland, WA for $1100. It already had 35 spline outer axles, and new Warn Premium hubs. It was 4.56 gears
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 2:30:02 GMT -5
The housing had a broken stud still in it. for those of you who don't know. chevy/dodge dana 60's have two threaded holes on one side instead of a u-bolt. The next step was to drill a hole and use an easy out to back out the broken stud. You need to watch for this when looking at Dana 60's. this is fairly common on old housings when they are removed. I didn't it was dark and rainy and as you know these are very heavy, and it was the last thing i was looking for. after breaking the first easy out, and using about 30 drill bits to drill a hole in it for another easy out. it finally came out clean with no damage to the housing.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 2:41:01 GMT -5
next was to start the teardown, for all new kingpin rebuilds, bearings, and seals. this was definately used in the mud. ALOT. in addition, water came out of everything. Taking apart the hub requires an allen wrench for the little bolts on the outside of the hub, a pick to pull the outer snapring, and in my case snapring pliers. some new hubs just have two rings that only need a pick to pull. i can show pics later if needed. Then you need a Dana 60 hub socket to pull the hub. once the hub is off. it should look like this, except this was later. then you remove the nuts holding on the brake bracket. (in some cases there is a dust shield, not shown)once removed it should look something like this now just use a rubber mallet or something to loosen the spindle and it will slide right off.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 2:49:26 GMT -5
now you need to remove the knuckle. depending on what it is put together with. you either have a regular cap on one side and a stock steering arm on the other. or you have aftermarket high steer arms. but, if you are rebuilding one chances are it is stock, as was this one. so a 3/4" socket is used to remove the bolts from the top. there is a spring and a plastic cap inside(the parts look like this) , so remove the bolts evenly to reduce pressure. once the cap is removed, it should look like this, except hopefully yours is cleaner. next you need to remove the lower pin, which is also held in with 4x 3/4" bolts. this is difficult to remove on older rigs, since it is more than likely rusted in place. this picture is obviously later but you see what it looks like to remove the cap requires a little hammer and chisle persuasion, but it will come off eventually.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 2:59:27 GMT -5
Once the lower pin is removed the knuckle should come right off, and a bearing will fall out of the lower end, then it will then look like this now you see the lower end where there is the round dust cap. below that is a race. this is where the bearing came out of. you now have to punch this cap out through the bottom. i found that a 1 7/16" impact socket fit perfect, to punch out with a hammer. it is fairly difficult, but once out it should look like this.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 3:08:18 GMT -5
Now you need to remove the kingpin. which is fairly difficult, since the specs say it is put on @650 ft lbs of torque. Also you have to order a 7/8" allen wrench which looks like this. you had better have some help for this part. i used a 8' piece of 2" 1/4"wall DOM cheater bar one popped real hard and came out no problem, but with the other i wasn't so lucky. all of the points broke out on the pin and we had to weld them all up just so we could break it loose. it finally came out
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 3:17:29 GMT -5
now i don't have pictures, but you pull the gears, and the inner tube seals are where the axle enter the housing. you pop those out and pound some new ones in. all of the rebuild parts for this can be bought over the counter at six states on columbia blvd (60th) or online, @ www.extremeaxlesales.com. i also replaced the pinion seal which comes out the same way, really easy right after you unbolt the yolk and slide the pinion out it is right there on the outside of the housing. now some people may not do this. (not necessary) but after seeing what can get in these i would recomend them. i bought outer axle tube seals from www.mad4wd.com $55. bad picture it's already halfway in. you just clean your axle tube really well and then apply silicon, and slide them in until the lip catches. real easy. make sure to grease them really well, fill the inside cavity with grease.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 3:22:43 GMT -5
now you begin with the kingpin rebuilds. here is what you need, one for each side. a kingpin rebuild kit $50 per side. includes new; kingpin, spring, plastic wedge cap thingy, new caps and gaskets, grease fittings, lower dust cap, bearing and race, new seals for the kingpin and lower pin, and all new grade 8 bolts and crush washers.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 3:32:04 GMT -5
First you screw in your new kingpins (not shown). tighten them as much as you can with whatever you have. (you can't over tighten) slide over the little rubber dust shield ring. now flip the axle over and put the little dome shaped cap in the lower hole followed by the race for the bearing. you will have to find something to pound this in with, and make sure it goes in evenly. you will know it is far enough, when on the other side the dome shaped cap makes a tight seal and there are no gaps above it(it can't go any tighter). Now grease the bearing really well, and also fill the cap and race with as much grease as the bearing will allow. insert the bearing, and then push the seal over the bearing, which should fit tight in the hole like this.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 3:36:29 GMT -5
reinstalling the knuckle. now you should be able to slide the knuckle over the kingpin and the bottom holes should line up. You can now punch in the lower cap bolt in tight and complete.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 3:46:05 GMT -5
now i went with high steer arms, but you can just as easily reinstall the factory steering setup. Put the little white cap in the hole covering the kingpin(there is only one way to do this, there is a groove on one side and also in the knuckle and they will slide together). Put the little silver ring on the top of the cap, and the spring on top of the ring. Push the highsteer arm over the top, aligning with the bolt holes. you will probably need help because it requires alot of pressure to compress the spring. just screw in the bolts with even pressure until tight and you are finished with the knuckles. Additional shimming may be required under the spring for more pressure if you get the death wobble problem. i had this problem, and it was easily solved by using two 1/8" thick washers the same size as the cap. you just put them on the spring and screw the arm on. it is just way tighter.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 14:20:18 GMT -5
Next you slide the axleback into place. (assuming you don't have to change out stub shafts) if you are changing out the stubs, place the axle in a vice. use a chisle and a hammer to pound off the c-clips on the inside of the axle ears. once removed you ppound out the huge 1480 joint, just like you would any other u-joint. You reinstall the new axle shaft the same way. once the axles are in, you reinstall the spindles. push them into place or use a mallet if they are difficult.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 14:23:45 GMT -5
Next you bolt the brake bracket back on. you can't screw this up, because the brackets have an L, and an R on them for sides, and there is only one way they will go on. OK maybe not i don't know what i was thinking here but the bracket is on backwards. it should bend in towards the housing, but you get the idea!
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 14:32:20 GMT -5
Now you slide the hub back on. New bearings or old is your choice. use your best judgement. You have come this far, i would recommend replacement. i wouldn't want to do this again. There is an inner bearing and an outer bearing. They are very simple, the bearing should just fall out and then you just pound out the race, from both sides. Now that you have slid the hub on, you reapply the spindle nuts using the appropriate socket. once complete you install the outer lockout hubs the same way they came off. i choose dually hubs, because of the fact that i am running H1 rims which are very onset, and can not fit over a single rear wheel hub.
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Post by 77oneton on Dec 25, 2007 14:41:13 GMT -5
For a diff cover, stock will work just fine. However i plan on playing on the rocks, and have already smashed a few. So i decided to go with a GLO diff cover. Which means Great Lake Offroad. Here is their info; GLO differential covers Extreme Duty Differential Covers by: Great Lake Offroad covers are made from two pieces(not including the machined fill plug insert).The bolt ring is laser cut from A36 grade 1/2" thick steel. The covers are formed from a single piece of 1/4" on a 250 ton CNC brake. The covers are then fit by hand and mig welded. We do not sand our covers. $110 Shipped TYD lower 48** Here are the specs................... Bolt ring 1/2" thick (we engineer strength where it is needed) 1 pc machined fill plug(placed for added oil capacity) 1/4" thick one piece cnc formed cover(why not thicker? read the warranty) Only at GLO X-tra cost options....... Counter bored mount holes, add $15(for a clean quality look) Integrated drain, add $20(ever cross deep water? Drain replace and go) 1/2" mid plating severe abuse, add $20(makes a nice hydro steer mounting point) Tread Plate option(diamond plate), add $20 Warranty ( No B.S. Fine Print )You break it under use they replace it and add you to the hall of fame as it has never been done in the last 5 years. The design has been engineered for strength. They weld these the proper way utilizing machined fixtures. Models available Dana 44, Dana 60, Dana 70, Dana 80, 14 bolt, Ford Sterling, Ford 8.8
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